Following last weeks’s tutorial on how to get the maximum out of your stock class blasters, I am back with a tune-up tutorial for flywheel blasters. Given the fact that your typical semi-auto flywheel blaster has a myriad of wiring and resistors and circuit panels going through it, it seems pretty daunting in trying to understand it. But once you know how the current goes through the blaster, it becomes pretty simple to follow.
UNDERSTANDING YOUR BLASTER
Given above is a simplified diagram of how a semi-auto flywheel blaster works. This covers the Stryfe, Demolisher, Rayven, Barricade, Rapid Red, Nerf Cam and the Modulus. The acceleration trigger is simply a pressure switch that completes the circuit, running two motors in parallel. The dart is pushed in by a mechanical pusher rod and the inversely moving flywheels propel the dart out. So far, so good. Let’s take a look at the actual thing.
Familiarize yourself with the internals. These will remain the same with all the semi-auto flywheel blasters. Understand how the trigger assembly works. Note the resistors running through the circuit especially the thermistor panel above the pusher rod. Keep these in mind, as they will be altered in the next segment.
Once you’re aware of how things work inside the blaster, you need to know what can you change in your blaster without breaking stock-class rules. Most of the time, its forbidden to use aftermarket batteries having a high voltage output, like Trustfires. So what you can do is get the most out of your stock alkaline batteries.
See the circuit board on the top right? It contains a thermistor that cuts off your circuit when it gets overheated. You have a choice of either entirely removing the board and soldering the wires, or simply twisting the yellow thermistor until the metal contacts are wound together. Also, remove the resistors in the flywheel cage shown below and replace them with normal wire.
To do this, first remove all four resistors. Then solder two pieces of wire that have an exposed section in the center in parallel. Use that exposed section to connect the wires going to the batteries.
Make sure you check the flywheel orientation and functioning before you reassemble your blaster. Following the circuit diagram is the only thing you need to see if you get stuck. Reassemble your blaster and test fire it a few times. Apart from being a great stock class performer, your blaster can now accept aftermarket batteries without overheating and stopping mid-game. Make sure you use good quality alkaline batteries like Duracell or Energizer, instead of the cheap Zinc-Carbon ones.
The trigger assembly might need lubrication to reduce friction and jams. Just lubricate the moving parts and the main points of contact and you’re good to go!
That completes my tutorial on Flywheel blaster tuning. Next week, its about taking care of your darts. Till then, have a blast!