Tag Archives: mod

PSA: Don’t do the spring spacer mod on the Hammershot!

Hey everybody, just a heads-up on the spring spacer mod on the Zombie Strike Hammershot; don’t do it, it kinda messes up the dart trajectory. Want to know more? Read the foam related nerdery below!

For beginners, the spring spacer mod is a mod which increases the spring compression on certain blasters on full prime, for example the Maverick, or more recent cases like the Retaliator and the Hammershot. This mod utilizes the spring that is left uncompressed on full prime, giving a slight boost to performance and getting the most out of the stock spring. One usually uses cardboard, thin PVC pipes or other stuff to fill up some space of the plunger rod to compress the spring just enough so that it’s 100% compressed on prime.

The problem that arises following this mod is that the Hammershot spring isn’t favorable to fire on 100% compression, reason that the spring housing allows a little play in the spring, and soon after being overcompressed, the spring will shift from its optimal position, resulting in a slightly offset spring that negatively affects the dart trajectory, either due to increased air pressure, poor dart design(that hole on the dart head) or both. Nevertheless, you might get a shot or two that performs marginally well, but mostly you’ll be dealing with unreliable performance, with most of the shots tanking down fast at about 20-25 feet.

Another thing that can happen is ‘over-spacing’ the spring, so that it reaches 100% compression before the catch is engaged, thus resulting in frequent misfires and the catch not even engaging at all (and I’m not even mentioning the stress those plastic bits have to handle).

So if you’re using pristine darts every time, or are satisfied with one good shot out of five, go for it. Otherwise, I’ll recommend steering away from this mod. A non-predictable, marginal advantage but frequent misfires,poor dart trajectory and an overall worsened performance. Besides, the Hammershot is a pretty good performer in stock form, and if you really want to mod it, opt for an OMW 8kg spring that is much more reliable than this mod.


Following last weeks’s tutorial on how to get the maximum out of your stock class blasters, I am back with a tune-up tutorial for flywheel blasters. Given the fact that your typical semi-auto flywheel blaster has a myriad of wiring and resistors and circuit panels going through it, it seems pretty daunting in trying to understand it. But once you know how the current goes through the blaster, it becomes pretty simple to follow.



Given above is a simplified diagram of how a semi-auto flywheel blaster works. This covers the Stryfe, Demolisher, Rayven, Barricade, Rapid Red, Nerf Cam and the Modulus. The acceleration trigger is simply a pressure switch that completes the circuit, running two motors in parallel. The dart is pushed in by a mechanical pusher rod and the inversely moving flywheels propel the dart out. So far, so good. Let’s take a look at the actual thing.


Familiarize yourself with the internals. These will remain the same with all the semi-auto flywheel blasters. Understand how the trigger assembly works. Note the resistors running through the circuit especially the thermistor panel above the pusher rod. Keep these in mind, as they will be altered in the next segment.


Once you’re aware of how things work inside the blaster, you need to know what can you change in your blaster without breaking stock-class rules. Most of the time, its forbidden to use aftermarket batteries having a high voltage output, like Trustfires. So what you can do is get the most out of your stock alkaline batteries.


See the circuit board on the top right? It contains a thermistor that cuts off your circuit when it gets overheated. You have a choice of either entirely removing the board and soldering the wires, or simply twisting the yellow thermistor until the metal contacts are wound together. Also, remove the resistors in the flywheel cage shown below and replace them with normal wire.


To do this, first remove all four resistors. Then solder two pieces of wire that have an exposed section in the center in parallel. Use that exposed section to connect the wires going to the batteries.

Make sure you check the flywheel orientation and functioning before you reassemble your blaster. Following the circuit diagram is the only thing you need to see if you get stuck. Reassemble your blaster and test fire it a few times. Apart from being a great stock class performer, your blaster can now accept aftermarket batteries without overheating and stopping mid-game. Make sure you use good quality alkaline batteries like Duracell or Energizer, instead of the cheap Zinc-Carbon ones.

The trigger assembly might need lubrication to reduce friction and jams. Just lubricate the moving parts and the main points of contact and you’re good to go!

That completes my tutorial on Flywheel blaster tuning. Next week, its about taking care of your darts. Till then, have a blast!